beach shelter uv image
bender
I'm planning to buy a bearded dragon, and i want to have the tank set up before i buy the dragon. So, my questions are:
1. How do I obtain a license? (I live in Victoria, Australia)
2. What do I need for it to be healthy? (As in diet, shelter, heat)
3. Are there any special items needed for lizards? (Calcium or something like that)
4. If so, what do i do with them? And how often do I need to use them?
Answer
Necessities
Vivarium
UVA/UVB Lighting
Day Heat Globe
Substrate
Water Bowl
Thermostat
Dragons can live for up to 25 years.
*NOTE â Dragons are social animals and we recommend at least 2 together.
Requirements
You require a licence issued by C.A.L.M. See above for the Category of licence.
Housing
Enclosures should be at least 100cm long and 50cm wide with top ventilation. Dragons are arboreal and require enough height in the enclosure to place branches for climbing. Enclosures must be secure and escape proof.
Substrate
Commercially cleaned and packaged sand is available. Bleached beach sand and red pindan sand are preferred as a base with a range of coloured sand also available including Reptilite calcium sand that can be used on top. Keep sand moist but not wet, this will help prevent shedding problems and compaction from injesting the sand during feeding. Dragons love to dig too! This will also help prevent cave ins.
Humidity and Water
Provide a water bowl with clean water at all times. It should be large enough to bathe in (but shallow for very young dragons). Waterfalls can also be used. Spray your dragons cage furnishings daily in the mornings in the summertime, watch your dragons lick up the droplets, to help prevent dehydration and problems with shedding.
Temperature and Lighting
Place a basking lamp at one end of the enclosure so there is a warm end and a cool end (thermal gradient) allowing the dragons to heat up and cool off, as they require. The hot spot should be approximately 30-35°C. The size of the enclosure will determine the wattage of the heat lamp used.
A definite daylight cycle of lighting should be provided, either manually or automatically using an electrical timer. Use a full spectrum UVA/UVB globe for 8-10 hours during winters and 12-14 hours during summer each day to provide the UV light they require to make vitamin D3 (essential for healthy bone structure).
Food
Dragons eat mostly insects but also some vegetation such as dandelion flowers and some finely chopped fruit and veg ie grated apple, carrot, peas, berries. Adult beardies tend to enjoy their fruit and veg, whereas hatchling and juvenile dragons are mainly insectivorous. Commercial insects are available live such as crickets, woodies and mealworms (mealworms should not be used as a staple as the chitin (skin) is hard for the dragons to digest and may cause compaction) and so are canned insects (canned mealworms are ok). Dusting food with calcium/vitamin powder helps provide full nutritional value. Feed adults every 2 or 3 days and babies daily. Dragons are easily handfed.
You may supplement from the garden, earwigs, any beetles, moths, dragonflys, huntsmen spiders, but be sure that no pesticides or chemicals have been used, if supplementing from garden, worming is essential every 3 months as many insects are hosts for parasites ie Moths.
Before feeding your dragon, lift up cage furnishings and water bowl to reveal any hidden insects, you may not have to add more food. Always leave a piece of fresh carrot in the enclosure for the insects to nibble on, or they will nibble on your dragon or eat faeces left in the enclosure. Clean faeces daily to prevent potential diseases and contaminating food.
Handling
Dragons quickly get used to being handled and may sit on your shoulder or hand happily. However they are quick and can jump. Please donât allow them to wander around a room even if you think itâs safe. They are small and quick and can easily get stuck, hurt, lost or even escape. Wash your hands before and after handling your dragon.
Recommended Extras
Thermometer â to help monitor ideal heat requirements.
Reptihand - hand cleaner that removes bacteria and other contaminants from your skin. Use before handling your pet.
Hide Rock â to sleep and feel secure.
Hide Log â to sleep and feel secure.
Multivitamins & Calcium â mixed in with fresh food or dusted on live food as a dietary supplement.
Worm Rid â in liquid form can be fed to your reptile using a dropper, especially if providing furniture from the bush.
Reptile Essentials Pack â contains cage cleaner, vitamin spray, skin shed spray, tick and mite spray and worming solution.
You should also add branches for climbing ideally arranged to reach the basking lamp.
Accessories
Feeding Bowl, Plastic Plants, Hide Logs, Heat Cave, Heat Rock, Cricket Feeder, Termite Mound, Water Well, Mealworm Bowl, Rock Walls, Rock Ledges, Waterfall, Basking Rock, Little Dripper, Roach Off, Jungle Vines and plastic plants for decoration.
Clean any accessories on a regular basis with bleach and soapy water, leave to dry in the sun and place back in the enclosure, changing the position of accessories will also make it more interesting for your dragons.
Make sure any heavy objects are icebergs in the sand so that your dragon does not become stuck by digging underneath it.
Health
Colloidal Silver â a preventa
Necessities
Vivarium
UVA/UVB Lighting
Day Heat Globe
Substrate
Water Bowl
Thermostat
Dragons can live for up to 25 years.
*NOTE â Dragons are social animals and we recommend at least 2 together.
Requirements
You require a licence issued by C.A.L.M. See above for the Category of licence.
Housing
Enclosures should be at least 100cm long and 50cm wide with top ventilation. Dragons are arboreal and require enough height in the enclosure to place branches for climbing. Enclosures must be secure and escape proof.
Substrate
Commercially cleaned and packaged sand is available. Bleached beach sand and red pindan sand are preferred as a base with a range of coloured sand also available including Reptilite calcium sand that can be used on top. Keep sand moist but not wet, this will help prevent shedding problems and compaction from injesting the sand during feeding. Dragons love to dig too! This will also help prevent cave ins.
Humidity and Water
Provide a water bowl with clean water at all times. It should be large enough to bathe in (but shallow for very young dragons). Waterfalls can also be used. Spray your dragons cage furnishings daily in the mornings in the summertime, watch your dragons lick up the droplets, to help prevent dehydration and problems with shedding.
Temperature and Lighting
Place a basking lamp at one end of the enclosure so there is a warm end and a cool end (thermal gradient) allowing the dragons to heat up and cool off, as they require. The hot spot should be approximately 30-35°C. The size of the enclosure will determine the wattage of the heat lamp used.
A definite daylight cycle of lighting should be provided, either manually or automatically using an electrical timer. Use a full spectrum UVA/UVB globe for 8-10 hours during winters and 12-14 hours during summer each day to provide the UV light they require to make vitamin D3 (essential for healthy bone structure).
Food
Dragons eat mostly insects but also some vegetation such as dandelion flowers and some finely chopped fruit and veg ie grated apple, carrot, peas, berries. Adult beardies tend to enjoy their fruit and veg, whereas hatchling and juvenile dragons are mainly insectivorous. Commercial insects are available live such as crickets, woodies and mealworms (mealworms should not be used as a staple as the chitin (skin) is hard for the dragons to digest and may cause compaction) and so are canned insects (canned mealworms are ok). Dusting food with calcium/vitamin powder helps provide full nutritional value. Feed adults every 2 or 3 days and babies daily. Dragons are easily handfed.
You may supplement from the garden, earwigs, any beetles, moths, dragonflys, huntsmen spiders, but be sure that no pesticides or chemicals have been used, if supplementing from garden, worming is essential every 3 months as many insects are hosts for parasites ie Moths.
Before feeding your dragon, lift up cage furnishings and water bowl to reveal any hidden insects, you may not have to add more food. Always leave a piece of fresh carrot in the enclosure for the insects to nibble on, or they will nibble on your dragon or eat faeces left in the enclosure. Clean faeces daily to prevent potential diseases and contaminating food.
Handling
Dragons quickly get used to being handled and may sit on your shoulder or hand happily. However they are quick and can jump. Please donât allow them to wander around a room even if you think itâs safe. They are small and quick and can easily get stuck, hurt, lost or even escape. Wash your hands before and after handling your dragon.
Recommended Extras
Thermometer â to help monitor ideal heat requirements.
Reptihand - hand cleaner that removes bacteria and other contaminants from your skin. Use before handling your pet.
Hide Rock â to sleep and feel secure.
Hide Log â to sleep and feel secure.
Multivitamins & Calcium â mixed in with fresh food or dusted on live food as a dietary supplement.
Worm Rid â in liquid form can be fed to your reptile using a dropper, especially if providing furniture from the bush.
Reptile Essentials Pack â contains cage cleaner, vitamin spray, skin shed spray, tick and mite spray and worming solution.
You should also add branches for climbing ideally arranged to reach the basking lamp.
Accessories
Feeding Bowl, Plastic Plants, Hide Logs, Heat Cave, Heat Rock, Cricket Feeder, Termite Mound, Water Well, Mealworm Bowl, Rock Walls, Rock Ledges, Waterfall, Basking Rock, Little Dripper, Roach Off, Jungle Vines and plastic plants for decoration.
Clean any accessories on a regular basis with bleach and soapy water, leave to dry in the sun and place back in the enclosure, changing the position of accessories will also make it more interesting for your dragons.
Make sure any heavy objects are icebergs in the sand so that your dragon does not become stuck by digging underneath it.
Health
Colloidal Silver â a preventa
Need a volleyball-proof infant shelter?
DW
My friends host a weekly volleyball game and would like to set their baby next to the court while they play, but they're worried about him getting hit by the ball. So they're looking for a protective shelter they can put near the court.
It has 2 requirements:
1) It must protect the baby from the ball, even if it's hit hard right at him.
2) The baby must be visible to the parents while they're on the court.
This is an indoor game, so the shelter doesn't need UV protection or sand anchors, but if you find something designed for the beach that's OK too. They can adapt or modify it if needed.
Any suggestions?
mikah: About 5 months. He's perfectly happy in a car seat or stroller, but that doesn't protect him from the volleyball. We can put the car seat (or stroller) behind something sturdy, but then he's out of sight.
Answer
How about a small portable soccer goal? If they put it a little way in front of him, it wouldn't matter if it got knocked flying (since they are fairly lightweight). All it has to do is kill the momentum of the ball.
How about a small portable soccer goal? If they put it a little way in front of him, it wouldn't matter if it got knocked flying (since they are fairly lightweight). All it has to do is kill the momentum of the ball.
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Title Post: Bearded Dragon general help?
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Thanks For Coming To My Blog
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